Installer Training Portal

Welcome to the Online Training Guide for Genius Hub! This guide has been designed to help you understand what Genius Hub does and set you up for success during your next Genius Hub Installation. Ideally, this training should be completed prior to your first site visit, but we welcome back any installers who’d like to top up their learning

In this guide, you will find:

Contents of the Installer Training

After you have reviewed this information, you can test your newfound/refreshed knowledge with our Installer Training Quiz to make sure you never get caught out by the frequently questioned topics outlined within the quiz. 

STEP 1: Marketing Materials

To help you and your clients view our product

Commercial

Elevate your business to new heights with Genius Hub's commercial brochure, showcasing cutting-edge solutions.

Residential

Discover the epitome of modern living with our residential brochure showcasing the unparalleled luxury and innovation of Genius Hub

STEP 2: Useful Installation Documents

We have compiled our documents and resources in one area, so you can review these while you proceed through the training. These are sent with systems, so you will have paper copies on site

STEP 3: How to Install

Before setting up the Genius Hub, begin by setting up the devices for installation

Mains Powered

The first component to be installed is the Genius Hub. This is the ‘brains’ of the system, which communicates with all of the other devices and allows you to control your heating remotely.

  1. The Genius Hub can be placed flat on a surface, such as a cabinet or mounted on a wall. To mount it onto a wall, first remove the back plate by turning the Genius Hub around so the logo is facing away from you with the cutout for the Ethernet cable (see point 3) at the bottom. Slide the segmented back plate in the centre of the Genius Hub down, holding the outside of the Genius Hub. Once it has moved approximately 1 cm down, it can be pulled away from the Genius Hub. The back plate can be screwed to the wall with the segmented part facing the wall. Make note of the 8 blue characters for the Registration.

    Before you screw the backplate to the wall, place the Ethernet Cable through the cutout so it is between the backplate and the wall. 

  2. If you have Genius Radiator Valves, ensure that the Communications Adapter is installed into the Genius Hub. If it is not, insert the Communications Adapter into the USB port found at the bottom of the Genius Hub.

     
  3. Connect the Genius Hub to your Internet Router using an Ethernet cable, such as the flat one provided. This fits into the port located in the middle of the rear of the Genius Hub. 
     
  4. Plug the USB power cable, both to the Genius Hub (until you hear it click) and into the power supply provided, and plug into a wall socket. A green light will appear on the left hand side. 
  5. Plug the USB power cable, both to the Genius Hub (until you hear it click) and into the power supply provided, and plug into a wall socket. A green light will appear on the left hand side. 

The Genius system has been tested with a wide variety of boilers, heat pumps and other heat sources and these are controlled by the use of the Electric Switch(es).

The Electric Switch should be wired into the same fused spur as the relevant zone valve or immersion heater.

  1. Always ensure that the boiler, immersion heater and wiring for the Electric Switch are electrically isolated before you commence work on any wiring.
  2. Break out the relevant section of a 1-gang pattress for the wiring, allowing for the wiring to exit the pattress box if applicable, and fix the pattress to the wall. It is recommended that a 32mm pattress is used.
  3. Pull through the relevant wiring, allowing plenty of spare.
  4. Wire in the Electric Switch as per the wiring diagrams provided, checking this is suitable as per the relevant installation manual for the boiler.
  5. Remove the front cover of the Electric Switch to expose the screw holes. The cover can be removed by placing a flat-bladed screwdriver into the gap underneath the Electric Switch and levering in a downward direction.

  6. Fit the Electric Switch into the pattress, ensuring there are no trapped wires. Screw in using standard pattress screws, and check the unit is securely and safely attached to the wall. Re-attach the front cover starting at the top.

In normal operation, there will be no lights when the unit is not heating and one or more red
lights near the button when heating.

Combination Boiler (one Electric Switch)

For control of a single Heating zone, such as a combination (combi) boiler, a single electric Switch is required. This will be wired either to the ‘Call for Heat’ terminals or boiler wiring centre as appropriate.

Note: If there is no existing boiler programmer then the Electric Switch(es) must be wired into the boiler as if it were an external programmer or thermostat. See the wiring diagrams provided by the boiler manufacturer to confirm the wiring guides provided with this installation manual. If you remove an existing wired house thermostat from the control circuit, it must also be removed from the control in the boiler wiring centre, otherwise the Electric Switch will not have control over the boiler.

System Boiler (multiple Electric Switches)

For a system boiler, at least Electric Switches will be required. One for each zone of heating, such as one for the Central Heating and one for the Hot Water. Extras may be required if there are multiple Central Heating zones, or multiple heating types as wet underfloor heating is also present. These will most likely be wired to the zone valve(s).

Hot Water Time & Temperature Control (Electric Switch andTemperature Probe)

The Electric Switch and Temperature Probe is used to measure the temperature of the Hot Water Tank. The Electric Switch must be wired into a switched, fused spur near the Hot Water tank. Place the end end of the Temperature Probe into the pocket/under the insulation of the hot water tank. The Electric Switch and Temperature Probe, which is used to measure the temperature of the Hot WaterTank. The Electric Switch must be wired into a switched, fused spur near the hot water tank. Place the end for the Temperature Probe into the pocket/under the insulation of the hot water tank

If the Hot Water Tank has an immersion heater backup, this can be wired into the electric Switch (output) so you can also control the heating of the hot water from the immersion heater as well as the boiler.

NOTE: At no point should the Temperature Probe be pulled out or removed from the electric Switch.

The Electric Switch should be wired into the same fused spur as the relevant zone valve or immersion heater.

  1. Always ensure that the boiler, immersion heater and wiring for the Electric Switch are electrically isolated before you commence work on any wiring.
  2. Locate the existing tank cylinder thermostat for the hot water tank.
  3. If the same pocket as the cylinder stat is accessible, insert the temperature probe into this pocket.
    1. If it is not available, attach the Temperature Probe to the outside of the tank(under the insulation) using a thermal paste so it gets an accurate water temperature reading and has good adhesion.
  4. Break out the relevant section of a 1-gang pattress for the wiring, allowing for the temperature probe to exit the pattress box if applicable, and fix the pattress to the wall. It is recommended that a 32mm pattress is used.
  5. Pull through the relevant wiring, allowing plenty of spare.
  6. Wire in the Electric Switch as per the wiring diagrams provided, checking this is suitable as per the relevant installation manual, such as immersion heater.
  7. Remove the front cover of the Electric Switch to expose the screw holes. The cover can be removed by placing a flat-bladed screwdriver into the gap underneath the Electric Switch and levering in a downward direction.
  8. Fit the Electric Switch into the pattress, ensuring there are no trapped wires. Screw in using standard pattress screws, and check the unit is securely and safely attached to the wall. Re-attach the front cover starting at the top.

In normal operation, there will be no lights when the unit is not heating and one or more red lights near the button when heating.

Smart Plugs can be used for 2 different purposes. They can be controlled via the app to switch devices plugged into them, via a schedule. They will boost the signal around the property improving reliability of the system and battery life.

The signal travels in straight lines and the only devices that relay the messages are the Smart Plugs, Electric Switches and the Receiver Units. The signal does not bend or bounce, so when positioning think about how thick the wall is that the signal is going to have to pass through to get back to the Genius Hub. Consider that thick stone or concrete walls may be difficult for the wireless signal to penetrate, so the Smart Plug may need to be positioned in a wall socket, which gives a longer route but through thinner walls.

For the Genius Radiator Valves, the Genius Smart Plug (Dual Band) is the only device which relay the messages, and so should be spread throughout the property between the Genius Hub and any Genius Radiator Valves.

If you are using the Smart Plugs to boost the signal, they are often placed in one of 2 configurations:

  1. In properties with a larger footprint, Smart Plugs are often placed on the upstairs floor as the walls are generally thinner upstairs and the signal goes through floors easily.
  2. In tall & thin properties the Smart Plugs are often placed centrally on each floor.
    For more information see: https://docs.geniushub.co.uk/x/dgFd

Do not plug anything into a Smart Plug which needs to remain on all of the time such as a fridge or freezer. The Smart Plugs may intermittently turn off, causing anything that you plug into it to also turn off.

Installing the PlugLock

The PlugLock is used in HMOs and commercial buildings as a tamper-proof option for the Genius Smart Plug. 

There are 2 ways to install the PlugLock with either the Smart Plug (Single Band) or Smart Plug (Dual Band):

  1. (Preferred) If the Smart Plug is being installed into a 1-Gang, Unswitched Socket:
    1. Unscrew the pattress screws holding the socket into the pattress.
    2. Install the Smart Plug and fit the PlugLock around the Smart Plug, lining up the PlugLock screw holes with the socket screw holes.
    3. Re-install the pattress screws through both the PlugLock and socket. This will mean that the Smart Plug can now only be removed by unscrewing the pattress screws.
  2. If using a 2-Gang or Switched Socket, they will likely not have screw holes which line up with the PlugLock as there is no standard placement for these, and so:
    1. Install the Smart Plug into the socket
    2. Install up to 3 of the adhesive pads provided and fix these onto the flat sections highlighted in grey in the image above. Remove the paper covers from the visible side.
    3. Carefully line up the PlugLock on the Smart Plug, and firmly push the PlugLock onto the socket. 

The Genius Hub system uses a radio protocol called Z-Wave and Zigbee* which creates a wireless network (separate from WiFi) around your home. The network is low-powered, as most of the devices are battery-powered and this helps to conserve battery life.

All of the devices on the network communicate with the Hub – this is the ‘brain’ of the network and it tells the heating system what to do. The Hub does this by sending ‘messages’ to the device that it wishes to control.

If two devices are placed far away from each other, or there is a lot of material separating two devices (i.e. thick stone walls for example), then the radio signal may not be strong enough for those devices to communicate well.

For further on the Positioning Guidelines and scenarios please see here: https://geniushub.atlassian.net/wiki/x/U6kg 

*ZIGBEE:  REQUIRES A COMMUNICATION ADAPTER TO COMMUNICATE, PLEASE SEE HERE: HTTPS://WWW.GENIUSHUB.CO.UK/SHOP/COMMUNICATIONS-ADAPTER/

Battery Powered

The thermostat provides you with an easy way to see the temperature in the room as well as a quick way of overriding the temperature without loading the app.

1. First, remove the Room Thermostat from its backplate using a flat bladed screwdriver and placing this in the cutout in the underside of the device, before levering the front away.

2. Turn the Room Thermostat over, so the screen is facing away from you and pull out the plastic tab to connect the battery.

3. Affix the backplate to the wall, with the up arrow at the top.

The golden rules for positioning a Room Thermostat are:

  • Internal Wall – To stop the Room Thermostat from under reading from being on a cold surface.
  • Out of Direct Sunlight – Consider if the sun was shining through the window would the Room Thermostat be in direct sunlight therefore affecting the temperature it reports.
  • Chest Height – Position 1.5m from the ground to give the best view and accurate temperature (not the ceiling temperature).

4. First screw the backplate to the wall in the chosen room. Then fit the Room Thermostat onto the backplate by aligning it at the top and rotating it down to meet at the bottom.

The Radiator Valves easily replace the majority of existing TRVs to give you the ability to schedule each room independently, without any plumbing being required.

Each Radiator Valve comes with two adapters. The two adapters fit the Radiator Valve onto either an M30x1.5mm thread (the UK standard which fits most brands of TRV) or a Danfoss RA fitting (the adapter with the grub screw). To mount the Radiator Valve:

  1. Remove the existing TRV head (this is the part which turns and normally has the number 1-5 on it to regulate the temperature) from the radiator. Usually this requires loosening a nut between the TRV head and the valve body (the part the water flows through). Fasten the new adapter to the TRV body on the radiator. Screw the adapter down onto the TRV body if using the M30 x 1.5mm adapter, or attach the RA adapter & valve onto the radiator & tighten up the grub screw using a 2mm hex (Allen) key. The image below shows the M30 adapter being fitted.

    If using the Danfoss RA adapter make sure that the grub screw is done up very tight as the adapters can work loose over time, which stops the Radiator Valve being able to shut off the flow of water to the radiator, causing the radiator to heat up when it is supposed to be off. 

  2. Remove the battery cover by depressing the tab at the back of the valve, and pull the cover up and away from the valve.

  3. Place 2 x AA batteries in the valve, a temperature should appear on the screen.

  4. Press and hold the button for 3 seconds until an ‘M’ appears on the screen. The ‘M’ will begin to flash on the screen, the valve will buzz and the plunger in the underside of the valve will retract. The valve is now in Mount Mode.

    The Valve must be in mount mode when being attached to the radiator.



  5. Screw the valve down onto the adapter. 
     

  6. Press and hold the button for 3 seconds until the valve starts to buzz and a temperature appears on the screen. This takes the valve out of Mount Mode.

    • If you want to get the valve as tight as possible onto the valve body, you need to remove the cover to access the button (which is beneath the button you press from the cover). If you press this button on the valve hard while tightening the valve onto the radiator you will be able to get it tighter, reducing the chances of the valve not being able to control the radiator properly.
    • Sometimes when you press a button on the valve it can take 30 seconds for the screen to react. This is normal as the valve may be communicating with the Genius Hub at the time.

    The Radiator Valve learns the characteristics of the radiator and room for the first couple weeks of heating after installation. This can cause it to be slow to heat up during this period. For more information on this process see: https://docs.geniushub.co.uk/x/T4BoBg

    You can stop a valve from learning if you simply press any button on the valve or turning the case whilst it is trying to warm up the room. The valve abandons the learning for that time and will wait until the next time it is called to heat a room before it tries to learn again.

    If you put a valve into ‘mount mode’ again then it will starting the learning process again.

The Room Sensors report a more accurate temperature to the app as they are installed at chest height and away from heat sources. They can also detect motion in the property to give you access to Sense and Footprint Mode for each zone. 

  1. Remove the battery tab from the back of the Room Sensor. Lightly tap the end of the Room Sensor on a hard surface, to ensure that the battery is correctly seated against the contacts inside the Room Sensor.
  2. Fix the Room Sensor temporarily to the wall using the thick black sticky pad, for the first two weeks. Once the customer is happy with the position they can use the long thin sticky pads provided to stick it to the wall. Alternatively the customer can use the screws provided to fix the Room Sensor to the wall when the final position is decided.
     
  3. The golden rules for positioning a Room Sensor are:
  • Internal Wall – To stop the Room Sensor from under reading from being on a cold surface
  • Out of Direct Sunlight – Consider if the sun was shining through the window, would the Room Sensor be in direct sunlight & therefore affecting the temperature it reports
  • Chest Height – The field of vision is 175º left to right and 40º up and down. Position 1.5m from the ground to give the best view and accurate temperature (not the ceiling temperature)
  • Facing The Occupants Of The Room – In rooms when people are sitting (e.g. lounges, bedrooms and offices) make sure the sensors are facing the front of the occupants so the sensor can see any movement in the room.

Often the best position for a room sensors in on an internal wall and next to a light switch.

The Motion Sensors report when movement is detected in a room, providing access to Sense and Footprint Mode in the app and allowing the heating to only heat when a room is in use.

1. First, fit the round, concave mount to the surface you want to attach the Motion Sensor to, as the Motion Sensor can be rotated on the mount, it can be placed on nearly any flat surface including walls and ceilings. As the Motion Sensor does not measure the temperature, it can be placed at any height and it does not matter if it is near a heat source in the room.

  • If the surface is magnetic, the mount can attach directly to it.
  • If you don’t want the mount to be moved in the future, use the white adhesive pad provided to attach the mount to the surface.
  • If you want the mount to be removable in the future, use the white adhesive pad provided to attach the metal plate to the surface.

2. Open the Motion Sensor by twisting the 2 halves until the solid and hollow dots line up, then pull the back off the Motion Sensor.

 

3. Pull out the battery tab, then replace the back cover with the hollow dot and solid dots lining up. Twist the back cover until the 2 solid dots line up once again.

4. Place the Motion Sensor on the mount. The 2 parts fasten together via magnetism allowing you to rotate the Motion Sensor to face the part of the room people are going to occupy.

Remember to leave the pack of fixings behind with the customer in case they want to move the Motion Sensor at a later date.

STEP 4: How to use the Genius Hub App

The Genius Hub app is available on mobile & web. Our app allows you to control all rooms in your property all in one device.​ Genius Hub revolutionizes comfort by putting control at your fingertips. With the convenience of your mobile or tablet device, you can effortlessly manage and regulate all heating zones in your property.

STEP 5: Caught up? Take our Installer Training Test

STEP 6: Register to be one of our accredited Installer

To become a registered installer, please add your details below so that we know that you’ve completed the training. We will then provide customers in your area with your contact details when they contact us wanting the system installed